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Business & Tech

Souper Fry: Where Gourmet Eats Meet The Streets

Merrick restaurant offers NYC flavor, and fast food done right.

Things move fast on Long Island.  Work, school, errands, appointments...and throw in the occasional snowstorm to make things a bit more challenging.

In between all that, we eat.  Again, fast.  A burger in five minutes.  A slice of pizza on the run, or perhaps some soup in the car.  Shopping fuel, a quick pick-me-up, whatever you want to call it.

There's nothing wrong with comfort food, but Souper Fry in Merrick is trying to make it, well, a bit more comfortable.  The two-year-old restaurant on Merrick Avenue serves up all your favorites fast, yet fresh.

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Jonathan Passman is the chef/owner of Souper Fry.  The Calhoun High School grad has seen, and dined in, his share of L.I. eateries over the years, and decided it was time to offer something different.

"I've been to every corner deli in every town and they're pretty generic...they all follow the same formula," Passman says.  "I thought it would be interesting to make a small place that's interactive where the chef/owner is right there, he's in the back making soups then he comes and takes an order."

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Food and Family

Passman graduated  from Calhoun in 1992.  After attending Oswego, he enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park.  From there, he made the rounds working as a chef at several restaurants, before landing an executive chef position at the Bedlam Street Fish & Clam Co. in Cold Spring Harbor. 

Soon, the opportunity arose for his family to purchase the establishment, and they operated it for three years before selling.  Having run a high-end place, Passman decided he wanted to take it down a notch, without sacrificing quality.

"My wife and myself and some friends were in the city, we passed a place called Palm Frites, they do nothing but fries," Passman recalls.  "I said 'what a great idea,' but that wouldn't fly as a neighborhood joint, we need to expand; to offer more, no one's going to eat french fries every day."

He purchased what had been a laundromat, and began to construct Souper Fry.  He picked the name from his love of 70's exploitation films.  From the ground up, the restaurant would have a NYC feel, with a lot of Merrick flavor thrown in.

"The guy who painted the walls, went to Calhoun with me.  The guy who did the floors, [same thing], so this place is steeped in Merrick life," he says.

Even Passman's father, Eric, a Kennedy High coach and retired police officer, helps out.  He thinks his son is making a strong go of it thus far, in the face of tough economic times.

"I think we're doing pretty good, serving good food at a reasonable price," the elder Passman says.

Fast and Fresh

So what makes Souper Fry stand out from the competition?  Passman says it's the quality of the food and the work put in to prepare it.  He says if you want your meal ultra cheap, that's fine, but that's not what you'll find here.

"I'm not going to compare with the 99 cent fast food menus.  If that's what you want to put in your body, then I'm not for you...what I can do is give you a really good product for a competitive price," he says.

As the name of the place suggests, you will find soups, and you will find fries.  Add on the word fresh.  A variety of soup is offered daily, homemade the day before, and tweaked before serving time until it's just right.  Every vegetable - hand cut.  The fries - same deal, served with a selection of homemade sauces, like Thai Peanut and 'N'awlins' Remoulade.

Passman came up with the idea of a 'Wrapini'; taking a wrap, and grilling it panini-style.   This gives the customer less bread, and more for their money.  Keeping it in the family, the most popular choice is the 'Sazini', named for his sister, Sarah.  It's a chicken cutlet (again, fresh not frozen), mozzarella, bacon, and special 'Roscoe' dressing, warm pressed in a wheat tortilla.

"The Sazini is synonymous with this town...for some reason it's taken this town by storm," Passman says.

Something For Everyone

Peak hours at Souper Fry are usually around lunchtime.  The restaurant gets a lot of business from local students, looking for a quick bite before heading back to class.  Passman says they draw a decent dinner crowd too.  A kids menu is offered, and Souper Fry is suitable for even the most picky of eaters.

"Say for instance, your wife is on a strict diet, [we serve] customized salads," Passman says.  "You can eat dry lettuce with grilled chicken and no sauce, I don't think there's anything in the world with less calories than that."

Of course, those who don't mind a few extra calories will feel at home as well.  Wings and quesadillas are offered, and half-pound Angus burgers were recently added to the menu.

"That appeals to the guy coming home to his wife," Passman says, "and wonders where can he grab some mozzarella sticks and wings, and go sit on the couch and eat, instead of having to sit in a pub."

In its two years in business, Souper Fry seems to be developing a loyal following, if reviews from a couple of patrons are any indication.

"I literally came here every single day," says Kevin Murphy, who also works at the restaurant part time.  "I love the food, it's different than everything else, it appeals to all different tastes."

Merokean Joe Mateo agrees, "They have very good [wrapinis], very good fries and dipping sauces, and the soups are always very good."

Surviving, Now And In The Future

Passman knows it's a challenge to keep a business going in the current climate.  Right after he opened, things took a turn for the worse in terms of the economy, job loss, and Bernard Madoff.

"We're paying our bills and chugging along...we're hunkering down like everyone else," Passman says.  "Are we going to get rich? I don't know, but we're open, and we have a good, loyal following."

One of the questions people ask Passman when they first walk in is, 'Is it a chain?'  The answer is no, but he seems open to the possibility.

"You could take [this concept] to a campus in North Carolina or Maryland, and duplicate it if you have the manpower and funds...the place would do enormously well outside of New York," Passman says, citing LIPA rates that cut into profits.

For now, Passman is content with continuing to promote and grow his flagship Souper Fry here in Merrick, giving local residents a reason to slow down their hectic routine, without coming to a complete stop.

"We've proven we can do it fast," Passman says, "keep it good, quality, and fast."

Souper Fry is at 1762 Merrick Ave. in Merrick, and can be reached at 442-1330.  Free delivery is offered; go to www.souperfry.com for more info.

 

 

 

 

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