Nicholas James Brings City Cuisine to the 'Burbs

For a few hours, the view of the local pet store notwithstanding, Merrick Road felt like SoHo as we slipped into the chic and relaxed atmosphere of Nicholas James Bistro.

A nice crowd had already settled in when we entered to soft lounge music and warm shades of burgundies, browns and burnt siennas.

We slinked into a (wobbly) corner table, met by a warm basket of foccaccio and rustic breads. With so many eclectic and innovative dishes on the menu, I was genuinely surprised to find pre-packaged butter.  Chef Kevin Liebov (then who is Nicholas James, I ask!) should take the time and effort to create his own garlic-herb spread, and he's got every reason and capability to go for such cool touches.

Our server (who got progressively tested as the place got busier throughout the night, her mood and approach leveling off from pure pleasantry to all business - completely understood) efficiently brought us a fine glass of house Chardonnay ($8) along with a Campobello Chianti 2008 ($8) which was light, but distinguished with subtle shades of spice and oak that trailed off as soon as they delivered - a really terrific glass of wine that begged "Red Sauce." Careful what you wish for...

The small Caesar salad was perfection ($7), the creamy dressing was tangy but hardly overbearing, zesty without being heavy.  Fried calamari ($10) came lightly battered and rightly tender.

We hit our first and biggest speed bump with the tomato basil dipping sauce - which could've easily doubled for canned tomato paste - or even thick tomato soup.  It was lifeless, flavorless, pasty and took the legs right out from under the fried squid. We stuck with the fat, fresh lemon wedges and assumed the worst was behind us.

Which it pretty much was. The horseradish crusted salmon came with a sensitive and carefully crafted presentation of steamed cucumber, creme fraiche and salmon pearls.  The tender filet was centered and smartly covered with a savory blended crust where the fresh bitter herb and fresh dill distinguished themselves nicely.

From the "Organics, Whole Wheat an Wild" section of the menu came the organic whole wheat ravioli ($24). It was wisely prepared (slightly) al dente for texture and stuffed with the Lennon and McCartney of contemporary rustic cuisine, portabella mushrooms and warm asiago cheese.

But once again - one wrong note threatened to undo the symphony. The tomato basil sauce that dressed the ravioli had perfectly accented hits of fresh basil and leaf spinach - but was undone by the presence of - could it be?! - that pasty pomodoro  - the same culprit from the calamari caper. Ultimately the dish prevailed, its desire to be great only partially dampered by the subpar sauce.

Dessert may have been the highlight. The chocolate truffle tart a la mode ($6.95) had a beautiful vertical presentation, with great care taken to decorate the plate with imagination and appetizing design. The cake itself was warm, full of chocolate lava that fell together with cool, fresh ice cream. Matched with a hot double espresso ($6) - we ended on a true high note.

Once Liebov fixes that corner table, adds another server on weeknights, gets his new butter going, and turns his attention to a new marinara recipe - Nicholas James will have mastered all the details that can separate it from the pack of eclectic, "nouveau fusion" restaurants that dot the Island Foodscape. Between now and then, Liebov's is a song worth hearing - and tasting.